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Waltham 100 jewel watch, which in fact contained an ordinary 17 jewel motion, with 83 minute synthetic rubies embedded decoratively in the automatic disc.
There was even an empty space, exactly where one jewel had been left out from the potential 84 holes
(42 upon each side of the rotor), most likely to leave
a nice, even quantity for the marketers to promote.

This kind of consumer deception could not last, but it had been only in 1974
that it came to an end, when the International Organisation for
Standardisation (ISO) published a standard which flatly banned manufacturers from
including any kind of non-functional jewels in their advertising
or even sales campaigns. This did not end manufacturers from going over the restrict of useful jewels (which increased to about 27 with the advancement self-winding watches in the 1950s, and the improved complexity
of the movement that they required), but it has meant that the promoted
jewels are at least jewel bearings, and they certainly won't have a bad effect on the watch.

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There are numerous components in a mechanical watch that to name them all would take hrs.
And with many different watch manufacturers, all of with a long history and custom of watchmaking, every movement varies
in complexity and arrangement, additional increasing the variety of pieces.

The history associated with some, such as
the balance wheel and escapement, go right back to
the beginnings of watchmaking - they are the foundation of a calibre.
Others, such as jewel bearings, are not essential to the every day workings of
a watch, but for high-class models are a key feature to ensure accuracy and longevity.

The idea of making use of hard jewels such as ruby plus sapphire was first approached in the 1700s.
The friction caused by metal massaging against metal in the many
steel parts rotating on pistons has been found to cause
inaccuracies, replacing the metal bearing with treasure equivalents
not only resolved the initial rubbing problem, but it was found these precious components did not wear
down as quickly either, radically increasing the longevity of the watch.

However , this concept did not spring into common utilization overnight.
Quite aside of the significant expense of using these precious rocks, the difficulty in actually shaping
them with the tools available at the time meant that
only the most luxurious clocks owned any, and even then only in the most crucial bearings, such as the balance wheel pivots.

Nearly two centuries afterwards, in 1902 Auguste Verneuil
developed a method of synthesizing sapphire and ruby.
This made jewel bearings substantially less expensive initially, and the improvements within shaping techniques over this time got meant
that they were now possible on a grander scale.
More and more watchmakers began to use them in their
movements, as well as the number of bearings that were to be 'jewelled'
in each calibre also increased. A full complement was usually agreed to
be 17 jewels, or 21 if capstones were added to the particular four
vertical bearings.

However , since watch accuracy increased throughout the twentieth century, it became harder
for view houses to claim advantages more than their competitors.

The painstaking, but subtle work that went into the last
adjustments on a movement were tougher to promote than impressive sounding 'jewelled bearings' containing rubies and sapphires, and
so watch companies began to pull attention to the number of jewels the calibre contained.
rather inevitably, this result in spiralling numbers of jewel bearings being used in watch mechanisms.
After a point, none of these bearings served any actual function, and many didn't actually contact any moving parts.

The trend reached its height in the sixties, with the most infamous being
the Waltham 100 jewel watch, which in truth contained an ordinary 17 jewel movement, with
83 minute synthetic rubies embedded decoratively in the
automatic disc. There was even an empty space, exactly where one jewel
had been left out from the potential 84 holes (42 upon each side of the rotor), most likely to leave a
nice, even number for the marketers to promote.

This kind of customer deception could not last, but it had been only in 1974 that it came to an end, when the International Organisation for Standardisation (ISO) published a standard which flatly banned manufacturers from including any non-functional
jewels in their advertising or sales campaigns. This did not stop manufacturers from going over the
limit of useful jewels (which increased to about 27 with the development
of self-winding watches in the 1950s, and the improved complexity of the movement that they required), but it has meant that the marketed jewels are
at least jewel bearings, and they certainly won't have
an unfavorable effect on the watch.

The extension associated with life that jewel bearings provides mechanical watches has had a serious effect upon them.
No longer are usually older watches an inferior product ; one which is wearing out.
With regular providing, a mechanical watch could operate for centuries without sacrificing accuracy.

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